An Oil Change is performed on a 4th gen 2016 Honda Odyssey minivan. The tools needed for an oil change are shown. The van is jacked up with hydraulic floor jacks, and the oil and filter are changed. In this DIY I discuss the maintenance minder, safety techniques, and advantages of changing your own oil. This is a demonstration-based tutorial that assumes only basic knowledge of car maintenance.
Links to the PARTS on Amazon:
Links to TOOLS on Amazon:
Welcome to the Grok Shop! In this video I’ll be doing an oil change on a 2016 Honda Odyssey. The procedure for other 4th gen Honda Odyssey years will be virtually the same. So just a quick rehash of the Maintenance Minder. Here you can see I’ve got a “B13”. “B13” just means I do all this stuff listed under “B” and then I also do “1” which is rotate tires, and “3” which is replace transmission fluid. Some of these other items I’ll be covering in separate videos but of course for today I’m just showing the oil and filter change.
So here I’m showing a super-set of the parts and tools you may need for this job. In fact I didn’t really need an oil filter wrench but you might, so I recommend: have one handy. And you don’t necessarily need two hydraulic jacks but it can be helpful in order to get the bigger jack further up under the car. Be sure to check in the description below or appropriate cart where I’ll have a link to the Amazon Grok Shop where you can find links to anything you might be missing to finish the project. If you haven’t already, I recommend you become intimately familiar with your Owner’s Guide (the PDF version of the Owner’s Manual) and the paper Owner’s Manual. And by the way, if you don’t have a paper Owner’s Manual, get one, because it actually has more information than the Owner’s Guide in some cases. Here you can see a little bit of the differences between the oil change information that they have in the owner’s guide and the Owner’s Manual.
OK, we’ll start out by applying the parking brake. OK next we want to have the van warmed up. So if it’s not already, start it up and bring it up to normal operating temperature. OK with the engine warmed all the way up we can turn it off. OK now we can go ahead and pop the hood. In here you can see the location of the oil fill cap and dipstick. OK next we want to remove the dipstick and clean it off and set it aside. OK next we can remove the oil fill cap and double check that we got the right kind of oil. OK next we’ll chock off the rear wheels. OK now we can go ahead and start jacking up the van. I like to place my jack on this flat section of the frame on each side of the van but with my larger jack it’s a little tough accessing that area. So this is where I use my smaller jack to just raise the van up a few inches to buy me that space so I can access the area I want to get to. Now we just jack it until we have the clearance we want plus a few inches to get the jack stands under and set it back down on the jack stands. I always place the jack stands underneath the standard pinch weld jack points and I like to put a little cardboard underneath to protect the paint on the van to avert rusting down the road. You could use something else besides cardboard; just something to protect the paint. Now just ease ‘er down on that first jack stand. So now of course, it’s just rinse and repeat for the other side. OK if I’m gonna be under a car like I will be for an oil change, I like to put the jack back under the car for added safety and I just want to firm it up against the frame; I don’t want to take any weight off the jack stands. When you do this, you want to make sure the jack’s valve is closed and tight so the jack’s capable of supporting weight.
OK now we can go ahead and get our oil drain pan, 17mm wrench and oil filter wrench underneath the car and set to go. One of the great things about Honda Odysseys: the oil filter is actually placed in a logical location. It’s just inside the right front wheel and very easy to get to. So I’m actually going to go ahead and remove the oil filter first. The reason I’m doing this is because in several cases I’ve actually dropped a slippery oil filter into my oil drain pan and fishing around for that oil filter in a pan full of hot oil is not really that fun and it’s pretty messy too. Also by doing the filter first I don’t have a full oil pan that I have to slide over underneath the oil filter and therefore risk sloshing some oil out. So I find this actually works pretty good and unless you use some kind of catchment, you’re still going to get some oil spilling onto the frame that you’re going to have to clean up anyway and we’ll be going through a little bit of cleanup here in a minute. In either case, when you go to remove the oil filter – I like to loosen it first, let it drain and drip for a bit, and then come back and completely remove it. So for now, I’ll just do a little preliminary cleanup to keep the oil from dripping on me when I try to get to the oil drain plug and for that, I usually use a 50-50 mix of Simple Green and water. Of course, once the job’s done I’ll come back and do my final cleanup. So now we can move the drain pan over and take our 17mm wrench and open up the oil drain plug. In some cases you may find the drain bolt’s too tight to loosen by hand, if so put your wrench on make sure it’s well seated and take a rubber mallet and lightly tap until it just starts to come loos,e and then open by hand the rest of the way. One of the great things about doing your own oil change is that you can let it drain for our really long time and usually the stuff that comes out last is the worst stuff. My recommendation would be to let it drain at least two hours if you have the time; even longer is better. Another tip you can try is to save any leftover new oil (clean oil) that you have when you do your oil change, and then on your next oil change, use that leftover oil to do a flush after you’ve completed the long drain.
While the oil is draining, we can go ahead and get our other stuff ready. For one thing, we can clean up the oil drain plug and change out that crush washer. Next we can go ahead and lube up our new oil filter’s gasket. With the oil drain complete or nearly complete, we can go ahead and start doing some more cleanup. OK next we can go ahead and install our new oil filter. So the question comes up how tight should your oil filter be? Personally what I do is I hand tighten until it feels snug and I never had any problem with that. If you’re not comfortable with that approach, you can tighten by hand until you feel the gasket make contact and then tighten another 2/3 to 3/4 of a turn and you may need to put a mark on the filter in order to actually see that you’ve gone that far. Some of that depends on what kind of gasket your oil filter has but be aware when you get to three-quarters of a turn after it makes initial gasket contact, it can be kind of tough to turn. OK so now we can do a little more cleanup and then reinstall the oil drain bolt. So now when it comes to the oil drain bolt, yet again we’re faced with the question of how tight, right? So for me, because I’ve done so many of these, I just tighten until I kind of feel the crush washer give a little bit and you’ll – you’ll feel that after you’ve done it quite a few times. If you’re not comfortable with that you can use a torque wrench as long as you can fit it in there. This is the torque spec from the owner’s manual.
OK next we can insert our funnel where the fill cap goes and start filling up the oil. The Owner’s Manual has this vehicle’s oil capacity (including filter) specified at 4.5 US quarts. I feel like it uses a little more than that, but you can start out by putting about four and a half quarts in and then start on your measurements. Once you’re done adding that initial four and a half quarts, go ahead and insert the dipstick. Definitely make sure you have a good clean cloth or shop towel available to clean off the dipstick after you make measurements and put it back in there. What we want to do is get the level of the oil halfway between the two lines on the dipstick. And once you’ve achieved that, you’re going to end up having to add more oil because you’re going to run the engine in order to get the oil circulating and then the oil filter will become filled with oil and then it will require you to add some more oil to get back to that level. So at this point you can put the oil cap back on put the dipstick back in and then we’re going to crank the engine. So now what we’re going to do is let the engine run for a few minutes – basically reach normal operating temperature and while it’s running we can take advantage of this opportunity to check for leaks. So we’ll go ahead and do that now. Once you turn the engine off, be sure to let it sit for a few minutes and then you can recheck the oil level with the dipstick. So the distance between the two lines on the dipstick represents a quart. So you can see mine’s about 1/5 to 1/4 of a quart below the middle of those two lines, so that’s how much I’ll add to get it back up to the halfway point. So after adding more oil you can recheck the level on the dipstick. Hopefully you got it right there in the middle but if not just repeat the process until you do. Once you get your oil at the right level, you’re all done. Of course, now you just reverse the jacking process to ease the van back down. Be sure to properly dispose of your oil and oil filter. So that’s it for this video. I hope you found it helpful; if so be sure to thumbs me up or let me know in the comments. Also be sure to subscribe for more odyssey related videos in the future. But, as far as doing an oil change on a fourth gen Honda Odyssey goes, that’s how it’s done. Thanks for watching.